The 9 Best Climbing Harnesses

Climbers who want one harness for gym, crag and cold days can try the Petzl Corax, which fits a wide range of bodies in two sizes. Twin waist buckles keep the belay loop centered, and adjustable leg loops fit over shorts or thick pants. It has rigid front gear loops, flexible rear ones and a three-year guarantee. It's bulky next to sport-only harnesses, an earlier version scored low for comfort on long hangs, and two buckles take longer to set.

Beginners who want simple, quick adjustments can start with the Black Diamond Momentum, a long-running starter harness. Its waist buckle comes pre-threaded, so there's no doubling back, and the leg loops slide to size without extra buckles. Four molded gear loops hold quickdraws or a belay kit. OutdoorGearLab called it a good pick for beginners, the gym and sport crags, and a women's version is sold too. The belt rides up when hanging, and the fabric shows wear.

Women heading out on multi-pitch days or in cold weather can wear the Petzl Luna, cut for a woman's waist-to-leg proportion, with buckled leg loops that adjust over layers. It carries five gear loops, with two very large rigid ones in front, plus an accessory loop and slots for tool holders. It's pricey, the rear loops can be awkward to reach, and it's heavier than sport-only designs.

Built for the gym and sport routes, the Petzl Selena is a light women's harness built like Petzl's unisex Sama, which held up to more than 100 guide days with no critical wear. Split webbing and foam spread the load across the waist, and stretchy leg loops fit without buckles, saving weight and bulk. Fixed legs won't stretch over bulky pants, and the belt rides up slightly when hanging.

Sliding buckles on the waist and both legs let the Mammut 4 Slide center the belay loop and fit over any layers. It comes in two broad sizes, has shaped gear loops and a rear haul loop, and a red wear marker in the tie-in loop shows when it's time to retire it. It's made with eco-certified materials. It's heavy, no outside tester has reviewed it, and opinions on its padding are mixed.

Climbers who mostly visit the gym or sport crags get a simpler, lighter harness in the Petzl Corax LT. It uses a single waist buckle and fixed padded leg loops to save weight, comes in five sizes plus a women's cut, and has four gear loops, an accessory loop and a three-year guarantee. The price is low. Fixed legs won't adjust over winter layers, it can run snug on bigger bodies, and no gear site has reviewed it yet.

Anyone looking for a lower-impact harness can try the Edelrid Moe 3R, a unisex all-rounder made almost entirely from one type of recycled polyester, so it's simpler to recycle. Four symmetrical gear loops and slots for ice clippers handle winter routes, and a butterfly-shaped waist belt is meant to spread the load when hanging. The belay loop has a core and sheath, like a rope. The earlier version's legs felt stiff, and this one hasn't been reviewed yet.

Women looking for a lower-priced all-rounder can pick the Mammut Ophir 3 Slide. Sliding buckles at the waist and on each leg adjust the fit for gym shorts or layered pants, and split webbing spreads pressure across the waist and legs. It has four gear loops and a rear haul loop, and its materials are certified for eco and fair-labor standards. Check the size chart, since the extra small has only two gear loops, and feedback is thin.

Kids get a sit harness built like a scaled-down adult one in the Edelrid Finn III. This size fits waists of about 50 to 70 centimeters, and sliding buckles adjust the waist and both legs. Size it by measurements, not age. A child whose hips aren't yet wider than the waist can slip out of any sit harness when tipped upside down, so many gyms put small kids in a full-body harness instead.